As we waited to sign in at the Maine Inn (the white-column mansion), we saw cowboys and cowgirls everywhere, taking a breather from two-stepping and line dancing. There was live music, stomping boots, hollering and laughing. The band was scheduled to play until midnight. Luckily we were staying at the Presidential Inn, a five-minute walk from the revelry.

Most people make their reservations a year in advance, though when we called only two months ahead, we had no problems. Our room was plain but comfy, with private bath, air-conditioning, and a ceiling fan. We unpacked our towels, soap, shampoo (all bring-your-own) and were ready to enjoy the weekend.

I woke at 5:30 A.M. and golden light was pouring in through the bay windows. We were on the third floor with a view of the golf course.

There were lots of walkers out at this hour, a couple of joggers, and a steady stream of golfers with early tee times. By eight I was ready for breakfast at the Maine Inn. The meals are all-you-can-eat eggs, toast, bagels, pancakes, sausage, cereal, juice, milk, and coffee.

You can be as active as you want at Poland Spring. Some people play hard from sunrise to sunset, but mostly people seemed to play hard for awhile, then take a break to read or visit. Many spend their days poolside. There are no telephones, no pets.

We sat with Peg and Joey from Massachusetts. Friends (avid golfers) had told them about the resort, and certainly the superb 18-hole course is a big draw. But Peg and Joey (non-golfers) said they walked every morning and evening, enjoyed all the entertainment, and were meeting tons of wonderful people.

Though our tee time wasn't until three, we walked to the course to look around. Here you can play all day for a one-time fee of $27.50. There is probably no golfing bargain quite like it in New England. We played 18 holes by 5:30, then ran to the dining hall for barbecued chicken, macaroni salad, succotash, potatoes and gravy, and rolls.

After dinner, we replayed our two favorite holes. We wanted to watch the sunset, so we returned the cart and walked up past the bocce players, the shuffleboard, and the couples on the putting green to a small sea of lawn chairs, where guests sit and watch the sun set over the White Mountains. The air was cool and the view was priceless.

After Sunday breakfast, we were on one of the resort's three tennis courts - grass tennis courts, like Wimbledon. I'd never played on grass. Most people haven't. It was fast and exciting. The ball skips and skids in unpredictable ways. I wasn't spending much money, but on that lovely grass court, I felt rich.